Category: Product News

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Stelbel Build Part 1; Frame Design & Geometry

Since we added Stelbel frames to our site a few months back we've been working on a staff frame order to document and showcase the process when you order one of these frames. 

Step 1. Decide which model to go for.

As we described in a previous post, Stelbel offers what we consider to be a perfect mix of custom geometry combined with a range of specific frame models each with their own ride characteristics and intended use. 

My plan for this frame is for it to be a true all-year-round road bike ideally suited to the riding here in Southern Oregon. That means full length fenders for winter road miles, and clearance for a wider, gripper tire in the summer without fenders. Not a gravel bike per-se, more a versatile road machine that can handle the many miles of gravel / fire roads here without compromising on a roadie position. A roadie's gravel bike if you like...

So that means a disc build which narrows down the options to 3; SB/03, Rodano and Antenore. Of the 3 it was a pretty easy decision, I ruled out the SB/03 as it's a little racy, so that left the Rodano & Antenore. Similar in riding style, but what sealed the deal for me is the stainless construction and raw back end on the Antenore Disc.

Step 2. Frame Geometry.

Stelbel can work with a variety of different ways to size up your frame and get the ideal geometry, but normally the best place to start is with a full bike fit (by Retul or similar). I ride a custom steel frame most of the time and had been fitted on this last summer by Bike Effect in Santa Monica so with my position pretty dialed I used this a starting point.

Taking precise measurements from the Palmer frame, these were sent over to Stelbel with some explanatory notes. In particular regarding the seat angle on my Palmer frame which is pretty steep, combined with a 25mm set back post. I left it to Stelbel to figure out what to do with this; either reduce the seat angle and go with a zero set back post, or stick with something similar. Turns out they are used to building frames with steeper seat angles and are not fans of the zero set back post, so they recommended a 25mm set back combined with a 75 degree seat angle.

Chainstay length is TBC, based on whatever they need to accommodate a fender and 28c tire, i'm expecting it to be a little longer than normal which is fine for this type of bike in order to give the fender / tire clearance it needs.

Lastly, I decided to reduce stem length from 130mm to 120mm to provide a bit more stability in handling, with keeping the rider position as close as possible to my current ride.

Within a day or so, Andrea at Stelbel crunched the numbers and sent me back this frame design to check over:

Step 3. Frame Design & Features.

For the last step in the process I had some specific asks for Stelbel to make this a true year round frame rather than a pure road disc frame. I went with the Columbus Futura Gravel fork, which is a little longer axle to crown than what's normally spec'd on this frame. It provides the all important fender mounts and extra clearance to run at least 28c tires with fenders in the winter, then wider gravel tires in the summer without fenders.

I also asked for a pump peg on the inside of the headtube to run a Silca Impero frame pump. Fender mounts will be of the bottle cage bolt variety at the foot of the seat-stay so as to not stand out too much without fenders attached. Having used eTap for the past few years I decided to stick with this groupset option, especially as it builds such a clean frame without cable guides.

Step 4.  Final Review.

Once I had checked and double checked Antonio's design it was time to sign-off the design and let Stelbel get to work. Now the really hard tasks start... waiting until the fall for the frame to be finished and deciding on the paint color!

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Phil Wood Bottom Brackets for every era....

The current batch of bottom bracket standards can seem pretty out of control, but for better or worse, that's not a new phenomenon.  It seems that manufacturers—bike and component—have been coming up with great new ways to do the bottom bracket since it was invented.  That means that when you go to replace the bottom bracket in your older frame, instead of having to worry about whether your frame uses a PF30 or a BB30, you have to know whether it uses a French or Swiss, Chater Lea or Raleigh Super-Corsa, or maybe just a standard BSA. 

In addition to just making exceptionally durable, beautiful parts, Phil Wood produces bottom brackets for these older standards, which means that you can keep that classic bike going when its bottom bracket gives out.  It also means that there's probably a good option for whatever your next #retrorebuild happens to be! 

The Phil Wood Stainless Steel Outboard bottom bracket and Stainless Steel Square Taper bottom bracket with its interchangeable Cartridge Cups

Phil Wood offers both square taper and outboard bearing versions of their bottom brackets in a range of standards that will keep everything from classic road bikes to early Ritchey and Klein mountain bikes rolling, and all of them use Phil Wood's famously durable bearings, so you know they'll hold up.  

One of the things we love about Phil Wood's Square Taper bottom brackets is that the rings that thread it into the shell are completely separate and easily swap-able!
Stainless Steel Press-in 35mm Outboard Bearing bottom bracket

The current fitment list for Phil Wood bottom brackets is as follows:

Stainless Steel Outboard Bearing Bottom Bracket is available in:
  • British (BSA)
  • British (BSA) E-Type
  • French
  • Italian
  • Swiss
  • Chater Lea
  • Raleigh Super Corsa
  • 35mm Press-in
Interchangeable Cartridge Cups for Stainless Steel Square Taper Bottom Brackets are available in:
  • British (BSA)
  • British (BSA) E-Type
  • French
  • Italian
  • Swiss
  • Chater Lea
  • Raleigh Super Corsa

And remember: because Phil Wood's Square Taper bottom brackets all use the same interchangeable Cartridge cups, if you have an older bottom bracket that you want to move to a different frame, you can simple get a new set of cups, and be good to go!

Please feel free to get in touch if you have any questions about fitment.  We work with these parts every day, and are happy to help you get the right ones!

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Campagnolo Disc Hubs: you've got options

If you want to run Campagnolo's disc brake system on your thru-axle frameset, but don't want to use one of their wheelsets, you've probably already found that your options are pretty limited.  Fortunately, there might be more than you realize!  

Because White Industries, Phil Wood, and Industry Nine all have very modular freehub designs, with any of these brands, getting a campagnolo freehub on your thru-axle hub is no problem.  Currently Onyx Racing Products and Chris King don't currently offer a thru-axle, centerlock disc hub that is compatible with a Campagnolo freehub, but both have plans to offer that configuration in the not-too-distant future.

So currently the list of thru-axle, centerlock hubs that are available with a Campagnolo freehub is as follows:

Industry Nine CL Classic Road Disc hub

Phil Wood Centerlock hub

White Industries CLD hub

And if you already have one of the hubs listed above, and you want to convert it to a Campagnolo driver, just get in touch, and we'll make sure you get the parts you need to convert your hub!

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These parts don’t just look good….

The parts we sell may be beautiful, but what really sets them apart is their design, function, and manufacture.

We post a lot of photos of beautifully machined and anodized parts from the likes of Chris King, White Industries, Paul Component, Industry Nine, Onyx Racing Products, and Phil Wood, and it can be easy to forget that the lovely finish is just the icing on the cake, as it were.

Onyx not only offers a huge array of colors, hub spacings, and axle types, but also have a unique silent clutch freehub

You can kind of look at the world of bike parts as coming in two types: those that come from a company with a clear history, an accessible staff, and a design process that takes their future usefulness into account, and those that don’t. While there are some really high quality parts coming out of Asian factories, the nature of many of those parts is that they are designed fill an order and that’s that. This is probably largely because so many of these factories have grown up to fulfill OE (Original Equipment) orders, where a bike company needs so many thousands of a certain hub one year, and then a year later they want something different. The mentality in this model is one of replacement in the case of failure—not service. Another aspect of this is simply one of distance and language. These factories are far away from many of the end users (that’s you and me), and aren’t set up or in a position to hear much from them, so making and supporting a product that is durable and serviceable just isn’t part of the business, and even if it is, the end user might have a very hard time actually reaching the company.

Paul makes some of the best brake levers available.

But that’s not the case at all with the parts we sell. Rather than being in the business of supplying large bike companies with cheap, replaceable parts, the companies that make them are almost all founded by people who wanted to create an alternative model in which parts are designed to be durable, serviceable, and as future-proof as possible because they were tired of dealing with low-quality parts that broke.

White Industries has a huge range of parts in various standards to adapt to just about any bike.

One example of designing from the standpoint of future-proofing is the White Industries freehub system. When a new freehub standard comes out, White Industries is great about designing a driver that will work with their current hubs so that if you have a wheelset you like, but you want the latest drivetrain, you aren’t forced to retire your old wheelset to get it.  And should you need a small part like a pawl or bearing for your older hub, getting one is easy.

In addition to their peerless bearings and freehub design, we love the ability to swap axles and endcaps on Chris King hubs to make them even more personalized.

Another perfect example of this is a Chris King bearing. Not only are these bearings made to extremely tight tolerances so that they run smoothly and efficiently from day one, they are also designed so that as they wear over thousands of miles, they can be adjusted and serviced so that instead of degrading, they wear-in to roll even more smoothly.  And when, after who knows how many tens of thousands of miles and grimy conditions, a bearing actually needs to be replaced, you can rest assured that there will be a replacement available.  This ensures that rather than having to simply buy a new wheelset when your hub fails for one reason or another, you’ll be able to service or replace the part that is worn, and keep going.  Whether it’s the bearings or the freehub, which only fully develops its classic buzz after hundreds and sometimes thousands of miles, Chris King hubs recall the best aspects of a time when the best parts were made to be broken in a bit in order to achieve their full potential because the intention on the part of the manufacturer was for the part to be in service for a very long time to come.

Industry Nine brought every part of production in house when they wanted the tightest control over their anodizing. The results are impressive.

And finally, one point that may be immaterial to the function of the part, but which bears serious consideration, is what happens to all of the metal and cutting fluid that’s left over after the part is finished. Chris King has to be the gold standard here, and has talked more than most about their careful recycling of everything from aluminum scrap to cutting fluid, but they’re not the only company that we sell who is careful about the disposal and recycling of their waste products. The regulations governing how these things are dealt with in the US are often a headache, but with each year bringing more news of the messes that are being created in places where there aren’t any such laws, we think they’re worth it.  We’d rather pay a little extra now, if it helps ensure the future of the people who make the parts we love, and the places we love to ride those parts.

So next time you find yourself contemplating whether that Chris King, White Industries, Paul, Phil Wood, Industry Nine, or Onyx part is worth it, these are some things you might add to your list of considerations. We tend to think that most of these parts look like a bargain once you think about them this way. What about you?

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White Industries Cranksets: Get The Gearing You Want

There are lots of things to like about White Industries line of cranksets: they're made in the US; available in various lengths, colors, and bottom bracket standards; and maybe best of all, they give you amazing flexibility when it comes to chainring types and sizes!

White Industries Polished M30 Crankset with BSA bottom bracket and CLD hub.

Whether you want a square taper crankset (with models for singlespeed MTB, or road) because it allows you to adjust the bottom bracket width and chainline to your hearts content, and use an incredibly-durable, low-maintenance bottom bracket like one of Phil Wood's square taper models, or you want a quality, Made in USA, 30mm spindle crankset that gives you the color options to match your headset, bottom bracket, or hubset, there is a White Industries crankset that will fit the bill.

G30 Crankset with TSR Chainring

If you want to run a 2x system, White Industries' Variable Bolt Circle (VBC) system is hugely flexible in its chainring options, with big rings from 52 down to 38 tooth, and small rings from 38 down to 24 tooth.  And if 1x is more your style, White Industries' TSR chainrings use a narrow-wide tooth profile to keep the chain in place and running quietly.

The same G30 crankset as above, but this time with a 46/30 VBC chainring combo.

Whichever type of chainring you start with, you can always swap it out because they're all attached with an easy-to-use lockring.


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Threaded Headset Options: Chris King GripNut and 2Nut Headsets

Some might not know that Chris King offers two options for threaded headsets: the 2Nut and the GripNut.

Our Gios build is coming along, and it's got a Chris King GripNut headset.


We'll give you a quick run-down of what the differences are, and why you might want one over the other.  

Chris King 1 1/8" 2Nut on the left, with a spacer in between the adjusting nut and locknut, and the 1" GripNut headset on the right.

The Chris King 2Nut is basically Chris King's high-precision take on the classic threaded headset.  The bearing cap is threaded, and then there's a lock nut on top of that.  The headset allows you to leave your steerer long by using spacers, a cable hanger, or just about anything else you can find to attach to a spacer (like a bell, for instance), and mechanically, it works exactly the way just about every other standard threaded headset does.  If you have a threaded steerer that extends at least 5 full threads above the top of the adjusting (lower) cup, you can use the 2Nut, and depending on how much more than 5 full threads your steerer has, you can fill the space above the adjusting cup with spacers to take up the extra room underneath the lock nut. 

Notice how the 2Nut on the left looks just like a standard threaded headset, but the GripNut on the right looks different because the locknut (called a lock ring) actually threads into the adjusting ring.

Here you can see the GripNut adjusting cap assembly taken fully apart. The three parts are: the adjusting ring, the thread collet (the split part which is actually the part that threads onto the steerer tube), and the upper lock ring.

If you have very little steerer tube extending above the upper bearing cup, or if you want to cut your steerer tube as short as possible for the lowest stack height, the GripNut is the best option because it uses a special expanding collet to clamp the steerer tube, which requires fewer threads. 

So while it looks a lot like the 2Nut, it is functionally very different.  The design is also more secure and resistant to going out of adjustment over time than a standard threaded headset design.  The main downside of this design is that you have to cut your steerer tube to the correct length (between 11 and 14mm above the top of the bearing cup, not the adjuster cap).  This obviously limits your ability to add anything like a cable hanger down the road, but on many bikes–especially classic racing bikes–this just isn't an issue, and keeping the headset's stack height low is a bigger priority.

Both headsets are available in 1", 1 1/8", and 1 1/4" sizes for straight steerer tubes, so you really can get whichever style works best for your bike and your intended use.  If you've got any questions about these, or anything else we sell, don't hesitate to get in touch.  We have experience with these on our bikes, and are always happy to help you decide which type will work best for you!

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White Industries has your bottom bracket

With all of the bottom bracket standards these days, it can be hard to figure out what will work with your bike and crankset, and once you do figure it out, you don't always have a lot of options.  This is where White Industries comes in: with their BSA and T47 bottom brackets, there are options for 24mm (Shimano Hollowtech 2), 28.99mm (Sram DUB), and 30mm spindles, so if you have one of these two common threaded standards, you'll have no trouble getting a quality bottom bracket to fit whatever cranks you have.  On top of that, all of White Industries' BSA bottom brackets are available in their full range of colors! 

From left to right: BSA 24mm, BSA DUB, BSA 30

All White Industries bottom brackets us replaceable Enduro sealed cartridge bearings, complete with an extra seal on the outside (in these photos, that's the orange or blue part, depending on the bearing).  This seal is easy to remove, clean, and lubricate, which means that keeping your bearings in great shape is a cinch.  On top of that, all of the bottom brackets use precisely-sized bearings that match the diameter of the spindle for which they're designed.  Many other manufacturers tend to use bearings that have a plastic inner sleeve where they contact the spindle, and while that seems to work fine, we like the solidity of a metal-on-metal contact that these have.

Here you can see the metal inner race of each bearing.

If you have any questions about compatibility with your frame or crankset, feel free to get in touch

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Introducing STELBEL Frames.

If you're a regular reader of our blog or follow us on social media you'll know that we're big fans of steel frames here at AVT. So you can imagine that when Chris King ceased production of their house-brand Cielo frames back in 2017 we were naturally disappointed. Since then we've been looking hard for a comparable replacement, something that matches the exceptionally high standards of engineering, product design combined with custom geometry to create a truly world-class frame.

We think we've found the answer to that in Italy, with STELBEL frames and I'm pleased we're now able to offer them on as the perfect canvas for the high end parts we know and love from Chris King and others. A worthy successor to Cielo, I'm sure you'll agree!

Who are STELBEL?

Certainly not as well known as many Italian builders, STELBEL fly under the radar, and not just for their understated paint designs. I first came across them during a discussion with a colleague a few years back about whether TIG welding high end steel frames was something that was first done in the USA. Turns out it wasn't... that honor goes to Stelio Beletti in Italy back in 1973 (which he went on to patent in 1975). Back then this was cutting edge stuff! Remember pretty much everything was lugged or filet brazed at that time, both heavier forms of construction, and limiting in terms of tubing profiles and frame design.

1977 Stelbel Integrale. 


With so many high end steel frames to choose from today, both off the peg and custom why choose STELBEL? Given the competition in the steel frame category I guess it comes down to details that really make a frame stand out in a crowded market. For me there are a few things that jump right out with STELBEL:

- Frame Design Details. I think it was the dropouts that first caught my eye a few years ago and they still look sharper than anything out there today. Classic Italian design & engineering that creates something so visually compelling and functional at the same time, combined with the chunky chainstays they contribute to a stiffer frame ensuring all the power goes to the rear wheel. This thinking carries over into all the other frame components such as Headtube and BB Shell which are both engraved with the STELBEL logo.

- A full range combining specific models with custom geometry. Yes custom geometry is great, but there are also some benefits to a frame designer spending the time to create a range of bikes for specific purposes. It means as a customer we're not starting 100% from scratch each time and we can pick the frame best suited to the type of riding we're going to do. This means that certain elements of the frame design like tubing selection, frame components such as the type of BB shell and fork have all been carefully designed for the intended usage. 

Having this, combined with custom geometry gives a perfect combination of made to measure plus a frame that's designed by an engineer who's carefully considered the intended use and has gone through many prototypes to refine the frame design. Within each model design there are still plenty of options to customize the frame for whichever electronic shifting system you use, plus options like extra bottle cages, fender mounts and more.

- Just enough customization but not too much.... In the same vein as the frame design, STELBEL's approach to paint is a combination of leaning on their in house design expertise combined with a high level of customer customization. What this means is that the paint design schema (ie the patterns, logos, panels etc) is fixed for each model, but then the actual choice of the color used is totally open to whatever the customer wishes. 

Given the current trend towards rattle-can finishes (personally I'm not a fan, they look great from a far, but up close terrible) I'd rather let a professional designer handle the paint design in a way that really showcases the amazing craftsmanship that goes into producing the frame. Paint color can also be carried over to matching bars, stem and seatpost to complete the matchy, matchy look we strive so hard to help you achieve here with components from Chris King, White Industries, Phil Wood and more.

Right now we have our first frame on order, a staff build perfectly suited to the Pacific North West comprising an Antenore Disc stainless steel frame with matching fenders, practical in winter, fast in summer. Stay tuned as we take you through the build and design process and give us a shout if you have any questions on ordering a STELBEL for yourself.

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White Industries announces the G25A rim

Here at AVT, we're big fans of White Industries.  Not only do they make really high-quality and beautiful products, but they're constantly working to keep up with standards, and are doing so in ways that don't render their older designs obsolete.  This has led to their hubs being up-gradable to keep pace with current freehub standards, among other things.  

Today White Industries made a big announcement: a new gravel and lightweight mountain bike rim called the G25A. 

Like the rest of their parts, this rim is made in their facility in Petaluma, CA, and that just makes its specs all the more impressive:

  • 25mm internal / 29mm external width with a 20mm depth
  • Tubeless compatible with a hookless bead
  • Welded joint with full post-weld heat-treatment to restore the metal's full strength
  • Matte black anodized finish
  • Asymmetric rim profile for more even spoke tension
  • 24, 28, 32, and 36 hole drilling available
  • Disc only
  • Recommended tire widths of 40-54mm
  • Available in 700c and 650B sizes

Where to start with these? 

How about a welded seam, for one?  This is an area that is uncommon among US-Made rims, and while you can find arguments in favor of pinned seams as well, there are good ones to be made for a welded one–especially if the rim gets post-weld heat-treatment–so this strikes us as a big deal.  Welded rims tend to be straighter at the seam, lighter, and have slightly easier tubeless setup, so we're happy to see White Industries taking this approach with their rim.

Another feature that we really appreciate in these disc-specific rims is their asymmetric drilling.  Asymmetric, or off-center spoke hole drilling helps even-out spoke tension both on the front wheel's disc-side and the rear wheel's drive-side, resulting in a stronger wheelset.

The width is also great for gravel and all-road bikes, and the wide range of available spoke counts will help more riders get the right wheelbuilds for their riding, so you can bet we'll be keeping a close eye on the development of this rim.

Current ETA is August, so stay tuned for updates here, and follow and like our Instagram and Facebook feeds, because we'll let you know the moment we can get these for you!  

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Industry Nine Hubs: Tech That Works.

A little background for those who might not know, Industry Nine got its name because it's the 9th business to come out of one machine shop in Ashville, N.C.  The owner, Clint Spiegel, started out in his dad's machine shop in his teens, and it's the evolution of that same shop that now produces Industry Nine products.  If you're interested in fancy machines, machining techniques, and just high-precision manufacturing, you'll get a kick out of this company, and we highly recommend reading up on them more!

Over the years, the company has moved through three distinct freehub design-eras: the first, what they call their Legacy Freehub, from 2006 to 2012; the second, their Torch Freehub, until this year (though it continues on road hubs); and finally the new Hydra and 101 freehubs, which just launched.

Torch Road disc and Road rim hubs. Photos courtesy of Industry Nine

The original freehub was a marvel of machining, with six pawls, engaging in two phases on a 60 tooth drive ring to give 120 points of engagement.  At the time, this was pretty much unheard-of, and the hubs immediately gained a following.  Their combination of fast-engagement, beautiful construction and colors, and their unique aluminum spokes made them really stand out.  We've heard people talk about the problems they had with those early freehubs, which just makes it clear how high I9 set their own bar, and it highlights one of the things we like about the company: constant improvement without forgetting about what they've done in the past.

Torch Road Centerlock Disc hub. Photo courtesy of Industry Nine

Industry Nine was working on improving their hubs during the six years of their legacy freehub, and when they released their Torch design, they ushered in a new era of reliability.  With their Torch Mountain freehub, they maintained the same 120 points of engagement, but modified just about everything else about the way freehub worked.  In essence, they refined the original Legacy freehub, fixing the issues it had, and building something that was really reliable and easier to work on.  I9 also launched their Torch Road freehub, which has 3 pawls, and 90 points of engagement for lower drag where high-engagement isn't important.  This family of hubs has proven itself to have some of the best hubs that use a traditional pawl-driven design.  With the Torch hubs, I9 also began making the hubs to work with a traditional j-bend spoke, which opened them up to many more applications.

Four of the 11 colors in which the new Hydra hubs are available. Photo courtesy of Industry Nine

Now Hydra takes freehub design to a place where it's never gone before.  The hydra freehub has a ridiculous 690 points of engagement, which means it engages every 0.52 degrees!  If you've ever ridden I9's Torch Mountain freehub, you know that its 3 degree engagement feels nearly instantaneous, but this is almost 6 times faster!  That's huge! 

The new design accomplishes this feat by putting the 6 pawls into 6 phases on a new 115 tooth drive ring.  That means that each pawl engages on its own, which might sound like it would make the mechanism weaker, but Industry Nine has clearly been taking a deep dive into how a freehub works because this one actually takes material flex into account to get those high-engagement numbers.  As you put pedaling force into it, first one, then more pawls engage as the system flexes ever so minutely.  The result, says Industry Nine, is a system that's stronger because it significantly reduces the possibility that only one pawl will be engaged under hard load, which would unevenly load both the freehub mechanism and the bearings.  So you get a hub that not only has insanely fast engagement, but it's also more durable, and because of the smaller teeth, lower drag.   

The new 6-bolt 101 hubset. Photo Courtesy of Industry Nine

As if this weren't enough, I9 also released their new 101 hubs at the same time as the Hydra.  101 hubs are currently only available in Boost spacing, black, 28 or 32 hole, with a centerlock or 6-bolt rotor configuration for j-bend spokes.  Basically, they're a great option for your modern mountain bike at the moment. 

The big news with 101 is that they're one of the most affordable hubs that's entirely designed, machined, anodized, and assembled in the US!  They use a new freehub design with 90 points of engagement using 6 pawls in 2 phases on a 45 tooth drive ring to deliver an engagement point every 4 degrees.  The use of larger teeth on the drive ring means they don't have to use their extremely expensive and slow EDM cutting process, which reduces cost significantly.  Beyond that, continual streamlining of their production process, a slightly simplified hub design, fewer options, and more automation in the machining process, results in a hub that's a really impressive value.  This hub allows us to offer custom wheelsets, built with the best parts on the market, for well under $800!

Both Hydra and 101 hubs are available with Sram XD, Shimano Micro Spline, and traditional Shimano HG freehub bodies.  Torch road hubs are available with Shimano HG 11-speed road, Sram XDR, and Campy freehub bodies, so you can rest-assured that your new hubs will be compatible with whatever system you have or want to have.

The new Industry Hydra freehub and 6-bolt mountain hub. Photo Courtesy of Industry Nine

We feel that these hubs offer a great value for riders who are looking for a truly exceptional hub, and we're really excited to be able to offer them!  With a every freehub covered, a wide range of bearing options, and just about every spacing available (road, fatbike, boost singlespeed, along with the various standard mountain spacings), these hubs have most uses covered.  The Hydra and Torch hubs are available in a huge range of colors, and as anyone who's seen it knows, Industry Nine's anodizing is second to none.  They brought their anodizing in-house early-on because they wanted to be able to control the quality and colors as precisely as the rest of their products, and it really shows.  Their colors are many, beautiful, and consistent. 

The new Hydra hub offers almost silly engagement numbers, and actually promises to bring a new level of function, durability, serviceability, and just quality to an already exceptional hub, while their 101 hubs make a very slightly pared-down version of their hubs available to a much wider range of riders with very little loss of performance.  We've got complete wheels built around these hubs available at a wide range of price points, so if you're interested in those, just check out our wheels page to get started.

From what we've seen the people behind Industry Nine know their stuff when it comes to designing and manufacturing a quality product, but beyond that they're also just great folks: their customer support is top-notch, and you can rest-assured that even as their hubs continue to evolve in the years to come, they will continue to support all of their products with friendly, helpful service, and in our book that's saying a lot.

Got questions?  We're here to help.  Check out our contact page to find the best way to get in touch!

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