Category: Tech How To


Recent Posts

Dropset Fit Roundup

Chris King DropSet compatibility revisited

You may have read our first blog post about which DropSet fits which bike, but now that we've worked with more customers, and done more digging to find out which bikes work with which DropSets, we figured it would be a good idea to do a followup post! 

First a little refresher on the different models:

DropSet 1: IS41/28.6 45/45 degree Upper Bearing, IS52/40 45/45 degree Lower Bearing (fits many Santa Cruz, Yeti, Alchemy, IBIS).
DropSet 2
: IS42/28.6 45/45 degree Upper Bearing, IS52/40 45/45 degree Lower Bearing (fits OPEN plus many Specialized, Trek, Cervelo and other major brands).
DropSet 3
: IS41/28.6 45/45 degree Upper Bearing, IS52/40 36/45 degree Lower Bearing (fits forks with a 36/45 degree crown race).

Below is a list of the bikes and brands we've checked out.  It's not exhaustive by any means, and we encourage you in any case to take a look at your headset bearings (they will almost always have their dimensions etched onto the outside of the bearing) before ordering just to be sure yours matches the information we have! 

If you need help finding the correct headset for a bike that's not on this list, we'd recommend checking the Cane Creek Headset Fit Finder, and then calling us so that we can make sure you get the right one!

All-City:

The new Cosmic Stallion uses the an integrated tapered IS42/28.6 IS52/40 headset, which translates to a DropSet 2 headset.  Pretty much every All-City frame is compatible with a Chris King headset, and many will also work with the options we have from White Industries and Phil Wood, but we're sticking to DropSet compatibility here, so we won't go into detail on the others!

Ibis Cycles:

Most of the Ibis frames use one of the InSet variations, but the Hakka MX uses and integrated tapered IS41/28.6 IS52/40 headset which translates to the DropSet 1 headset.

Mason Cycles:

All Mason Cycles frames currently use integrated tapered IS42/28.6 IS52/40 headsets, so they work with the DropSet 2.  

Santa Cruz:

The vast majority of Current Santa Cruz bikes use integrated tapered IS41/28.6 IS52/40 headsets, so they work with the DropSet 1.  The few exceptions to this are the V10, which uses  an Inset 5 and the Jackal, which uses an InSet 3.

Trek:

Many, but not all Trek bikes use the DropSet 3.  The best idea with these is to remove your headset bearings and check the size, because Trek uses many different headset styles and standards across their line, and some are completely proprietary, while others will work fine with an aftermarket headset like DropSet.

Specialized:

Many Specialized bikes use a DropSet 2, but because of the wide range of variations between the models it's hard to say with much certainty until you look at the bearings in your bike, so that's what we recommend doing in order to determine which will work best.  One example that we've researched is the current S-Works Tarmac Disc, which uses the DropSet 2

3T:

The 3T Exploro uses an integrated tapered IS42/28.6 | IS52/40 headset, which translates into a DropSet 2.  Currently there isn't a Chris King headset that will work with the Strada, which uses a smaller lower bearing.

Open:

The Open U.P. uses an integrated tapered IS42/28.6 | IS52/40 headset, like the 3T Strada above, so it uses a DropSet 2 as well.  This is true for all versions of U.P., including the 'Classic', 'New', and the U.P.P.E.R.

Genesis:

Genesis, like some of the other brands already mentioned, uses a variety of headsets, some of which have Chris king equivalents, and some of which don't.  We've found that many of the ones that use integrated headsets use the DropSet 2, but we recommend checking the bearings in yours before ordering. 

Beyond this list, Chris King has these general compatibility notes:

The DropSet 1 is compatible with Santa Cruz, Yeti, and Alchemy, among others.

The DropSet 2 is compatible with Open, 3T, All City, Low, Cinelli, and Lynsky, among others.

The DropSet 3 is compatible with the Santa Cruz Stigmata (without baseplate), among others.

Given the vast array of variations in headset dimensions right now, it's beyond the scope of this post to list everything, because in many cases finding out what will fit what takes some research, so we'd love to hear from you about any new fits that you find.  This will help us help other riders to find the right headset for their bikes!

And of course, if you need our help figuring out which headset will fit your bike, we're here, so just give us a shout!

Click Here To Read More.


Alloy Wheels Are Better Than Ever!

Alloy rims are still a great option for your road bike, and here are some of our favorites!

With all of the focus on carbon rims these days, it would be natural to think that there was no place for alloy ones anymore; but in our opinion, that couldn't be further from the truth!  While carbon rims do offer some real benefits, they're expensive, and not necessarily the best choice (at least for bikes with rim brakes) for wet-weather riding because of generally poor braking in the wet.  And let's face it, not everyone has the money to drop on a new carbon wheelset–especially on a backup or winter wheelset.  Because of this we wanted to highlight a few alloy rims that we feel are not just OK second-choices, but that actually provide great performance and features that make them desirable options regardless of price.  Note that this post focuses on alloy road rims; in the future we'll talk about some of our favorite mountain rims.

Alloy rim technology and profiles have come a long way from the ones we rode 20 years ago, bringing stronger, lighter alloys to wide, tubeless-compatible rim profiles.  And if you just don't want to go disc, or are looking for a nice wheelset to put on an older rim-brake bike, some of the best of these use a ceramic coating to deliver low-weight braking on par with discs that isn't affected by wet weather!  These rims make a great alternative to carbon for off-season rides, or just a lower-cost option for any time of year, but as noted above: don't let the lower price fool you, because these are great rims, and we ride and recommend them daily.    

With that bit of introduction, here are a few of our favorites:

HED Belgium Plus

https://www.avt.bike/search.html?Search=belgium%20plus&utm_source=Blog&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=Oct29

The HED Belgium rim was arguably the first high-performance rim that used a wider profile to spread the tire out to match the rim with more closely for greater aerodynamics and traction, and higher air-volume for a smoother ride.  Steve Hed had a very long history researching and making aerodynamic parts (we've all probably seen the famous HED tri-spoke wheel that has been a fixture of time trials and track racing), and this rim brings that no-how to a rim that is light, durable, and versatile, making it great for everyday use.  The Plus version of this rim (which is the one we offer with our wheelsets) adds 2mm to the overall width of the rim, which works better with the 25mm and up tire sizes that many of us ride these days.  And yes, the Belgium Plus is tubeless compatible, so you'll get a super-supple ride from your tires, and won't have to worry about every little sticker giving you a flat! 

This rim is available with a machined brake track for rim brakes or without for discs.  This our go-to rim, and in our opinion, both of the complete options below are some of the best values in road wheels at the moment!

Specs:
  • External width: 25mm
  • Depth: 24mm
  • Seam: Welded
  • Brake track: Machined (on rim brake model)
  • Tubeless Ready
  • Weight: 465 grams

Complete Wheels built around Chris King R45 hubs are available here.

Complete Wheels built around White Industries T11 hubs are available here.

Astral Solstice

If you're looking for a super-light, made-in-USA alloy rim, then this one just might be for you! 

Astral has been keeping a low-profile, and their graphics are similarly low-key, but behind all of that is a high-quality alloy rim that won't make you pay any weight penalties.  Astral is one of the few companies that actually makes their rims entirely in the USA, and to our knowledge, is the only one making a welded rim in the USA, so this is a pretty special product.  Truth be told, the only beef we can find with Astral's rims is that the graphics are a bit ho-hum, but especially for a winter wheelset, your rims are likely to get dirty anyway so that really doesn't matter much.  Like the HED option above, the Solstice is tubeless ready so you can have the best ride quality and puncture protection, but it has a slightly narrower profile, which is probably part of how it shaves-off some weight.  The rim brake version of the wheelset below comes in at a mere 1370 grams, and the disc version only ups the weight to 1440 grams, so this is a great option for riders who either just want to keep the weight down without the cost of carbon, or who want a lightweight winter wheelset!

Specs:
  • External width: 23.5mm
  • Depth: 22mm
  • Seam: Welded
  • Brake track: Machined (on rim brake model)
  • Tubeless Ready
  • Weight: 425 grams

Complete wheels built with White Industries T11 hubs and Astral Solstice rims are available here.

Mavic Open Pro UST

It's hard to discuss alloy rims without at least thinking of the Mavic Open Pro. This rim was, and to some still is, the standard workhorse rim for road bikes: great Maxtal alloy, a welded seam, tough double eyelets, nice machined brake track, and great overall quality have made this rim a keeper! Over the years though–especially as Mavic pushed the cycling world more and more toward wheel systems starting with the Helium wheelset–the venerable Open Pro's glory has faded a bit.

Well, that's finally changed with the new Open Pro UST and Open Pro UST Disc: these rims are wider, fully UST compliant, while maintaining a reasonable weight. They've also added some crazy shaping to the rim profile, with a look more reminiscent of Mavic's high-end Ksyrium wheel systems, which probably increases the strength while keeping the weight down because it focuses material at the spoke holes, but it definitely looks rad!

These are rims that we haven't offered in the past (we will be adding them to our AVT Works Custom Wheels soon)–partly because we just like the other options that have so much.  It's hard not to have a certain attachment to Mavic's rims though: most of us have ridden, and have enjoyed riding them because they tend to be very durable for their weight, whether that's because Mavic's Maxtal alloy really is as good as they say it is, or because they're just well made and well designed.  Another place where Mavic excels is their tubeless support: they're one of the few manufacturers to use the UST standard.  While savvy and cynical readers might point out that Mavic was one of the founders of the standard, that doesn't change the fact that it's one that seems to work quite well.  Our experience of using rims that are UST compliant is that they are very reliable and easy to set-up tubeless, so that's a plus in our book!

Specs:
  • Internal width: 19mm
  • Depth: 25mm (at spoke holes)
  • Seam: Welded
  • Brake track: Machined (on rim brake model)
  • Tubeless Ready (UST compliant)
  • Weight: 430 grams

-

While the rims to this point will give you a lightweight, high-performance wheelset, for the very best braking performance with rim brakes, a ceramic coating offers significant advantages, which brings us to....

-

Boyd Altamont Ceramic Alloy

This is where the really special stuff starts happening: the Boyd Altamont Ceramic alloy rims might look like carbon from a distance, but that stealthy coating is actual ceramic!  This coating covers the entire rim–including the brake track–which protects the rim because the coating is more durable than paint, but more importantly, it improves the braking in both wet and dry conditions when using rim brakes

As far as we're concerned, Ceramic coated rims are where it's at for rim brakes.  They make it possible to have the light-weight of a rim brake bike, but with the stopping capabilities (and uniformity across weather conditions) that discs usually give.  It's really a win-win, so we're really excited about them!

The Altamont's 30mm deep rim profile is decidedly more aero than the other models in this post, but it's still squarely in the all-around category, making it a great choice for just about any type of riding.  If you ride rim brakes, and want an alloy rim–whether it's as a winter backup for a carbon one, or as a high-performance year-round one–we can't recommend this rim highly enough!  The combination of medium depth, wide width, and the durability and braking performance make it a really impressive option, so if you're thinking it might fit the bill for you, our bet is that it will!

Specs:
  • External width: 24mm
  • Depth: 30mm
  • Seam: Welded
  • Brake track: Ceramic Coated
  • Tubeless Ready
  • Weight: 485 grams

Boyd Altamont Ceramic Alloy rims are available here.

Complete wheelsets built with White Industries T11 hubs and Boyd Altamont Ceramic Alloy rims are available here.

Complete wheelsets built with Chris King R45 hubs and Boyd Altamont Ceramic Alloy rims are available here.

As a special promo through the end of November, we're offering half-off one of our Donnelly road and gravel tire bundles when you spend over $500!  Just use promo code "Tire_Promo" at checkout!

Hopefully this has been helpful, but if you're not sure which rim will be best for your next wheelset, just get in touch!  We're always stoked to get riders on the best parts for their riding-styles, bikes, and budgets!




 

Click Here To Read More.


Custom parts kits are our specialty!

Do you want to make a matching kit, but aren't sure how to do it? We're here to help!

One of the things we enjoy most is helping our customers get the best parts kit for their bikes.  Sometimes that means something as simple as making sure they get the right headset or bottom bracket for their bike, but other times that means helping them match-up parts from various manufacturers to create a cohesive group that will give them a beautiful and functional build!  And remember also that just because these photos don't have wheels as part of them, we can also build complete wheels to fill-out your kit!

Because White Industries offers their cranksets with a variety of extractor cap colors, you can match your cranks to the rest of your parts in a really low-key, but effective way! This kit includes the White Industries M30 crank with Chris King ISO B Front and ISO B Rear Hubs, and a Chris King Threadfit 30 bottom bracket in Matte Punch.

Not everyone knows that Chris King makes beautiful headset spacers to match their other parts. This kit includes their ISO AB Front and ISO B Rear Hubs, Threadfit 30 Bottom Bracket, InSet 2 Headset, and Spacer Kit all in Matte Slate.
This White Industries kit includes the M30 Crank, BSA Threaded Bottom Bracket, and Zero-Stack 44 / External Cup 44 Headset in blue.

Sometimes black is best! This kit includes White Industries' M30 Crank, BSA Threaded Bottom Bracket, and Zero Stack 44 / External Cup 44 Headset all in black.




Click Here To Read More.


Chris King Dropset™ 1,2 or 3? Which One Will Fit My Bike?

A few months back Chris King launched their long awaited DropSet 1, their first integrated headset and first headset with a ceramic bearing option. Like most people we were stoked about this new product, but it did have a relatively specific list of compatible frames from Santa Crus, IBIS, Alchemy plus a few others. 

So we knew it wouldn't be long before the rest of the DropSet range would be here, offering a MUCH MUCH greater selection of compatible frames and forks. That time is now, and the DropSet 2 and 3 are now available in all 9 standard colors, plus 2 brand new colors for 2019 (Matte Turquiose and Matte Mango).

The DropSet range now comprises 3 products.

DropSet™ 1: IS41/28.6 45/45 degree Upper Bearing, IS52/40 45/45 degree Lower Bearing (fits many Santa Cruz, Yeti, Alchemy, IBIS).

DropSet™ 2:
IS42/28.6 45/45 degree Upper Bearing, IS52/40 45/45 degree Lower Bearing (fits OPEN plus many Specialized, Trek, Cervelo and other major road and MTB brands).

DropSet™ 3:
IS41/28.6 45/45 degree Upper Bearing, IS52/40 36/45 degree Lower Bearing (fits forks with a 36/45 degree crown race).

How To Work Out Which Size You Need.

1. Consult Your Bike Manufacturers Headset Spec.

Most major bike / frame manufacturers will list the headset spec on the relevant product page on their website, so this is the best place to start and compare the bearing size (ie 42/52) and contact angle (ie 36/45) with each of the DropSet sizes.


2. Remove Your Headset Bearings And Check Their Size.

We were curious this week building up a new staff bike, an OPEN UP to see which of the new DropSets would fit so we just popped out the stock Cane Creek bearings to check the sizes printed on them. You can see in these 2 photo's they have sizes marked on which correlates to the DropSet 2.

Upper Bearing.

Lower Bearing.


3. Consult the Cane Creek Fit Finder. 

Cane Creek have put together this very useful Fit Finder app which lists over 17,000 different bike brands and models and their corresponding headset sizes. Just look up your bike, note the bearing size and compare to the DropSet sizes.

4. Contact Us And We Can Help You Find Out.

Shoot us an email, hit us up on Live Chat or phone and we'll be happy to help you figure out which size you need so you can get that integrated headset running sweetly for many years to come...

    Click Here To Read More.


    Upgrading Chris King hubs to black parts.

    You might have noticed that Chris King Matte finish hubs (Matte Jet, Punch & Slate) come fitted with all black external facing parts like axle, end caps which complement the matte finish perfectly. Thankfully now though, the black parts are all available individually which allows any color Chris King hub to be upgraded to a custom looking black finish which looks great with colors like Turquoise, Mango or Black.

    Here's a taste of what a pair of Turquoise BOOST hubs looks like before & after.

    Before:

    After:

    If you're looking to make this upgrade we've grouped together the individual parts required for the most common hub types (please note that the parts required are not available for every single Chris King hub) which you can check out here. We can also do the heavy lifting for you and have our AVTWorks tech team carry out the work for you (contact us for more info...).

    Click Here To Read More.


    Upgrading the axle on your Chris King ISO Disc hubs.

    With all of the different axle and driveshell standards available today, it can start to seem like a given hub will only work on one specific frameset, with one drivetrain, but thankfully, that isn’t necessarily true!

    All of the hubs we sell are made to be backward and forward compatible because their designers don’t want you to have to buy something that will only work on your current bike. Your Chris King hubs are long term investments that will last through the years and across bikes and drivetrains, so they need to be able to be kept current!

    Whether you have a front hub with a quick release axle that you’d like to convert to 12mm thru-axle, or a rear hub that needs a standard change, the swap is easy.  We recently had to swap the axle in a Chris King rear hub, and wanted to show the simple steps involved. This applies directly to all Chris King ISO and R45 hubs. For Chris King Classic hubs, the steps are very similar, but involve different tools.  Note: because of the different hubshells involved, boost and non-boost hubs are not interchangeable.  

    A note on Boost compatibility. Currently Chris King does not offer any replacement axles to upgrade non-Boost hubs to Boost standards. The only way to get Boost compatibility is to purchase a pair of Boost hubs.

    Tools needed:

    2.5mm allen key

    Small flat head screwdriver

    Small quantity of a high-quality lubricant such as Chris King Performance Hub Bearing Grease, a 10wt motor oil or Tri-Flow.

    Chris King Axle Hub Cone Tool (if you are working on a front QR hub).

    Parts Needed (to swap front hub from QR to 12mm Thru Axle):

    Chris King Axle PHB783

    Chris King Axle Clamp PHB702

    Note: If you are looking to perform this upgrade on a hub other than the front QR one we have shown here, you can browse the parts required here, or please contact us and we can help you find the exact parts needed for the hub in question.

    Step One

    Insert the screwdriver into the small split in the end cap, gently twist and pull it off.  The cap is shown below after removal for clarity.

    Step Two 

    Use the 2.5mm allen to loosen the bolt on the axle adjusting clamp. Unscrew and set aside the axle clamp.  Note: both bolt and axle clamp have standard threading, so they turn counterclockwise to loosen.

    Step Three

    Press out the axle from the non-driveside of the hub toward the driveside. Firm hand pressure should be enough to remove the axle. The driveshell (freehub) might stay in the hub or it might come out as well. It isn’t necessary to remove the driveshell from the hub, but if it comes out it’s not a problem, and you can simply reinstall it by gently pushing it into the hubshell while twisting clockwise. You will hear a click when it is fully seated.

    Step Four

    Put a few drops of lubricant on the new axle (just enough to wet the surfaces that will be touching bearings, as well as the threaded portion of the axle), and slip it into the driveshell, threaded side first.


    Step Five

    Now thread on the adjusting clamp until it touches the bearing.  Check for binding and play, readjust if necessary, and if all is good tighten the 2.5mm allen bolt to 10 inch pounds.

    At this point you’re all done, so go ride your bike!  After making adjustments to your hubs, it’s a good idea to check them for play in the first couple of rides just in case something settles a bit.

    Click Here To Read More.


    Why Sometimes A HEAVY Hub Is A Good Idea!

    Here at AVT we supply parts to customers all over the world for some very different applications. Sure, much of what we do tends to be focussed on high performance gear, but mixed in with this we sometimes get some more unusual requests like this one from Aussie, Nigel Smith who has been touring the world for 7 years and is still going (check out his fully laden touring rig above).

    Given the extreme demands a fully laden touring bike like this places on parts like hubs, it was no surprise to hear that Nigel has already gone through several pairs of Shimano XT & Novatec hubs in recent years. With an upcoming 20,000km leg of his world tour coming up in Africa he was looking for something more robust, that would last the distance and cope with the daily punishment on tour in remote parts of the world.

    Step forward the heavy duty, high quality Phil Wood touring hubs which weigh in at an impressive 731g for the pair. But for once weight is certainly not everything, these hubs are without doubt some of the strongest on the market with stainless steel internals that withstand much higher loads than regular hubs. They also allow a greater degree of serviceability on the road, should you need to take them apart to service.

    So we wish Nigel well on his tour with his new hubs and we'll be following his progress on his Instagram page: https://www.instagram.com/browsinaboutonabike/

    Click Here To Read More.


    CROSSISCOMING Single Speed CX Conversion - Part 2

    In part 1 of this conversion project I started out by looking at the various options for converting my non-single speed Canyon CX bike into a dedicated single-speed rig for this CX season. After measuring the chain-line it looked like my preferred option of using the White Industries ENO Disc hub would work, just needed to give this all a dry run fitted to the bike before pulling the trigger on the rear wheel build.

    1- Checking the fit of the hub, freewheel and chain.

    

    A quick dry run using the un-boxed rear hub, White Industries freewheel and a KMC 8 Speed chain proved the whole set up went together nicely and the chain line worked well on both of the freewheel sprockets. Next up the wheel build.

    2- Rebuilding the old rear wheel with a new White Industries ENO Eccentric hub.

    I decided against a completely new wheel build for this, for one thing this bike will only get used for 3-4 months of the year, but also with MTB standards moving to Boost I had a perfectly good set of carbon Halo Vapour 29er wheels sitting around gathering dust. Its also one of the advantages of using hand built wheels in the first place (rather than a factory built wheel with proprietary hubs / spokes), is that it gives you the flexibility to re build around new hubs / standards while keeping a perfectly good rim.

    So the rear wheel was re-built by our #AVTWorks team to swap out the old SRAM XD 142x12 hub with the new White Industries ENO one.

    3- Putting it all together for the final build.

    The rest of the project was pretty straightforward from here on in. Once the rear brake was set up using the White Industries Eccentric caliper mount (paired to a set of single speed specific TRP Hylex RS brakes) everything else went back on the bike including some wide WTB Nano 40mm tires (great for those early season dry, dusty and bumpy courses where they don't measure your tires!), Ritchey cockpit and some MASH bartape.

    

          If you're thinking of your own conversion for CX season or have any other product related questions contact us and we'd love to help you out!

          Click Here To Read More.


          CROSSISCOMING Single Speed CX Conversion - Part 1

          CROSSISCOMING so it's time to start thinking about our thriving local Southern Oregon CX Race scene. 

          This year for something a little bit different (AKA making life harder for myself!) I thought it would be fun to race single speed... of all the different forms of bike racing i've done over the years i've never raced single speed so here goes.. i'm thinking, i'm good at running, I can push a big gear when I need to.. what could possibly go wrong?!

          First up I need a bike and don't want to splash out on a single speed specific rig (just yet), so in true cyclo-cross fashion i'm looking to re-use what i've already got in my garage with a few new parts where needed.

          The chassis for this conversion is my trusty Canyon Inflite AL frame, an alloy disc CX / winter road frame with carbon fork that i've had since 2013. This is a solid, super reliable frame & fork that over the years has been pressed into service in numerous guises, and despite a few bumps and scratches is still going strong...


          So here we are with it's 5th new lease of life and first up solving the issue of single speed compatibility on a non single speed frame. 

          There are a few options to consider for the conversion:

          1- Easiest is to run a chain tensioner like the Paul Melvin with a single speed conversion kit for the existing rear wheel (Mavic Crossmax 29er with a Shimano Freehub). This is the cheapest in terms of new parts needed, and the most straightforward to achieve when it comes to chain line and ease of switching cassette sprockets to find the right gearing. 

            Chris King Single Speed KitAll Chris King PartsIncludes the cog of your choice

            Paul Components Melvin Chain Tensioner, Single Speed - Black


            2 - Build a new rear wheel around the White Industries Eccentric ENO disc hub. This is my preferred option as it avoids any potential issues with dropping chains etc when using a tensioner.. and lets face it, it just looks a little more PRO as a single speed set up.

            White Industries Rear Eccentric ENO Single Speed Disc Hub 32h, 135mm, Black

              But the big question here is whether the chainline on the bike with the existing ROTOR 3D crankset i'm running is close enough to the 45mm that our friends at White Industries recommend for use with this hub. Assuming the chain line checks out my plan is to re-build the rear wheel from an old pair of carbon 29er XC (non-Boost) wheels that have been gathering dust since everything moved to Boost.

              The other option would be to build a completely new set of wheels around the Knight Composites TLA 35 rims, but given a single speed wheel is no good for anything else the rest of the year I decided this was a little excessive and i'll stick to re-using my old gear! 

              There are of course other options for a single speed conversion that use some form of eccentric bottom bracket. Either a PF30 eccentric BB or a Phil Centric English threaded BB. But with the BB92 pressfit on the Canyon neither of those are an option as there is nothing available to fit it. Using a 30mm crank like the ROTOR 3D also rules out any Chris King bottom bracket so i'm sticking with Enduro BB86/92 4130 / 41mm bearings which are pressed directly into the frame.

              Step 1.

              Checking the chainline.

              I marked the center of the seat tube with a sharpie after measuring it with a pair of calipers, looks a little funky given the tapered / asymmetric seat tube, but the line is pretty much in the center. 

              Fit existing ROTOR cranks with new 38T CX round chainring. 

              Measure distance from the chainring to the mark on center line of the seat tube.

              Although its not very clear from the pictures the chainline is very close to the 45mm recommended by White, sure there's a pretty decent margin of error on the measurement (maybe 2 or 3mm) but it's close enough to give me confidence that this will work. 

              If I need it there is some adjustment on the chainring either by mounting it to the inside of the crank (like an inner ring) plus using spacers between the BB and chainring to space it out more, or alternatively by using a 0.5mm cassette spacer to move the freewheel out slightly.

              Step 2.

              Parts ordered!

              White Industries Rear Eccentric ENO Disc Hub
              White Industries Eccentric Disc Caliper Mount
              White Industries ENO DOS Freewheel

              Stay tuned for the next installment where I check everything fits together on the frame and the chainline works before having my old rear wheel re-built around the White Industries hub.

              If you're thinking of your own conversion for CX season or have any other product related questions contact us and we'd love to help you out!

              Click Here To Read More.


              Tubeless Road Tire Compatibility on ENVE Road / Gravel / XC Rims

              Technical Service Bulletin from ENVE on tubeless road tire compatibility with ENVE Road / Gravel and XC Rims:

              "To guarantee a safe and enjoyable rider experience with the SES 4.5AR,M50, M525, G23, and G27 it is important that customers select and ride tires that we have tested and identified as reliable and safe to ride. 

              In both lab and field testing, some tires have failed to remain securely mounted on the SES 4.5AR, M50, M525, G23, and G27 hookless bead designed rims. At standard operating pressures of <80psi/5.5bar, some tires are susceptible to “blow-off” which is defined by the tire bead stretching off the rim. 

              Approved/Recommended Tires

              Mavic Tubeless Tires >28mm
              Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless Easy 28mm
              Schwalbe G One Speed Tubeless Easy 30mm
              Maxxis Padrone Tubeless Ready 28mm
              Hutchinson Sector Tubeless 28 or 32mm
              Hutchinson Intensive 2 Tubeless 28mm

              Incompatible/Not Recommended Tires
              Specialized S-Works Turbo 2Bliss Ready 28mm
              Any Tube-Type/Non-Tubeless Tires

              We acknowledge that this list of tires is not comprehensive and that many new tubeless compatible tires are being introduced to the market on a regular basis. We will continue to add tires to this list as we test and qualify them."

              For any questions on this or any other rim / tire / wheel build item please contact us!

              Click Here To Read More.


              1   2   >   >>