Category: Tech How To

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Custom parts kits are our specialty!

Do you want to make a matching kit, but aren't sure how to do it? We're here to help!

One of the things we enjoy most is helping our customers get the best parts kit for their bikes.  Sometimes that means something as simple as making sure they get the right headset or bottom bracket for their bike, but other times that means helping them match-up parts from various manufacturers to create a cohesive group that will give them a beautiful and functional build!  And remember also that just because these photos don't have wheels as part of them, we can also build complete wheels to fill-out your kit!

Because White Industries offers their cranksets with a variety of extractor cap colors, you can match your cranks to the rest of your parts in a really low-key, but effective way! This kit includes the White Industries M30 crank with Chris King ISO B Front and ISO B Rear Hubs, and a Chris King Threadfit 30 bottom bracket in Matte Punch.

Not everyone knows that Chris King makes beautiful headset spacers to match their other parts. This kit includes their ISO AB Front and ISO B Rear Hubs, Threadfit 30 Bottom Bracket, InSet 2 Headset, and Spacer Kit all in Matte Slate.
This White Industries kit includes the M30 Crank, BSA Threaded Bottom Bracket, and Zero-Stack 44 / External Cup 44 Headset in blue.

Sometimes black is best! This kit includes White Industries' M30 Crank, BSA Threaded Bottom Bracket, and Zero Stack 44 / External Cup 44 Headset all in black.

Click Here To Read More.

Chris King Dropset™ 1,2 or 3? Which One Will Fit My Bike?

A few months back Chris King launched their long awaited DropSet 1, their first integrated headset and first headset with a ceramic bearing option. Like most people we were stoked about this new product, but it did have a relatively specific list of compatible frames from Santa Crus, IBIS, Alchemy plus a few others. 

So we knew it wouldn't be long before the rest of the DropSet range would be here, offering a MUCH MUCH greater selection of compatible frames and forks. That time is now, and the DropSet 2 and 3 are now available in all 9 standard colors, plus 2 brand new colors for 2019 (Matte Turquiose and Matte Mango).

The DropSet range now comprises 3 products.

DropSet™ 1: IS41/28.6 45/45 degree Upper Bearing, IS52/40 45/45 degree Lower Bearing (fits many Santa Cruz, Yeti, Alchemy, IBIS).

DropSet™ 2:
IS42/28.6 45/45 degree Upper Bearing, IS52/40 45/45 degree Lower Bearing (fits OPEN plus many Specialized, Trek, Cervelo and other major road and MTB brands).

DropSet™ 3:
IS41/28.6 45/45 degree Upper Bearing, IS52/40 36/45 degree Lower Bearing (fits forks with a 36/45 degree crown race).

How To Work Out Which Size You Need.

1. Consult Your Bike Manufacturers Headset Spec.

Most major bike / frame manufacturers will list the headset spec on the relevant product page on their website, so this is the best place to start and compare the bearing size (ie 42/52) and contact angle (ie 36/45) with each of the DropSet sizes.

2. Remove Your Headset Bearings And Check Their Size.

We were curious this week building up a new staff bike, an OPEN UP to see which of the new DropSets would fit so we just popped out the stock Cane Creek bearings to check the sizes printed on them. You can see in these 2 photo's they have sizes marked on which correlates to the DropSet 2.

Upper Bearing.

Lower Bearing.

3. Consult the Cane Creek Fit Finder. 

Cane Creek have put together this very useful Fit Finder app which lists over 17,000 different bike brands and models and their corresponding headset sizes. Just look up your bike, note the bearing size and compare to the DropSet sizes.

4. Contact Us And We Can Help You Find Out.

Shoot us an email, hit us up on Live Chat or phone and we'll be happy to help you figure out which size you need so you can get that integrated headset running sweetly for many years to come...

    Click Here To Read More.

    Upgrading Chris King hubs to black parts.

    You might have noticed that Chris King Matte finish hubs (Matte Jet, Punch & Slate) come fitted with all black external facing parts like axle, end caps which complement the matte finish perfectly. Thankfully now though, the black parts are all available individually which allows any color Chris King hub to be upgraded to a custom looking black finish which looks great with colors like Turquoise, Mango or Black.

    Here's a taste of what a pair of Turquoise BOOST hubs looks like before & after.



    If you're looking to make this upgrade we've grouped together the individual parts required for the most common hub types (please note that the parts required are not available for every single Chris King hub) which you can check out here. We can also do the heavy lifting for you and have our AVTWorks tech team carry out the work for you (contact us for more info...).

    Click Here To Read More.

    Upgrading the axle on your Chris King ISO Disc hubs.

    With all of the different axle and driveshell standards available today, it can start to seem like a given hub will only work on one specific frameset, with one drivetrain, but thankfully, that isn’t necessarily true!

    All of the hubs we sell are made to be backward and forward compatible because their designers don’t want you to have to buy something that will only work on your current bike. Your Chris King hubs are long term investments that will last through the years and across bikes and drivetrains, so they need to be able to be kept current!

    Whether you have a front hub with a quick release axle that you’d like to convert to 12mm thru-axle, or a rear hub that needs a standard change, the swap is easy.  We recently had to swap the axle in a Chris King rear hub, and wanted to show the simple steps involved. This applies directly to all Chris King ISO and R45 hubs. For Chris King Classic hubs, the steps are very similar, but involve different tools.  Note: because of the different hubshells involved, boost and non-boost hubs are not interchangeable.  

    A note on Boost compatibility. Currently Chris King does not offer any replacement axles to upgrade non-Boost hubs to Boost standards. The only way to get Boost compatibility is to purchase a pair of Boost hubs.

    Tools needed:

    2.5mm allen key

    Small flat head screwdriver

    Small quantity of a high-quality lubricant such as Chris King Performance Hub Bearing Grease, a 10wt motor oil or Tri-Flow.

    Chris King Axle Hub Cone Tool (if you are working on a front QR hub).

    Parts Needed (to swap front hub from QR to 12mm Thru Axle):

    Chris King Axle PHB783

    Chris King Axle Clamp PHB702

    Note: If you are looking to perform this upgrade on a hub other than the front QR one we have shown here, you can browse the parts required here, or please contact us and we can help you find the exact parts needed for the hub in question.

    Step One

    Insert the screwdriver into the small split in the end cap, gently twist and pull it off.  The cap is shown below after removal for clarity.

    Step Two 

    Use the 2.5mm allen to loosen the bolt on the axle adjusting clamp. Unscrew and set aside the axle clamp.  Note: both bolt and axle clamp have standard threading, so they turn counterclockwise to loosen.

    Step Three

    Press out the axle from the non-driveside of the hub toward the driveside. Firm hand pressure should be enough to remove the axle. The driveshell (freehub) might stay in the hub or it might come out as well. It isn’t necessary to remove the driveshell from the hub, but if it comes out it’s not a problem, and you can simply reinstall it by gently pushing it into the hubshell while twisting clockwise. You will hear a click when it is fully seated.

    Step Four

    Put a few drops of lubricant on the new axle (just enough to wet the surfaces that will be touching bearings, as well as the threaded portion of the axle), and slip it into the driveshell, threaded side first.

    Step Five

    Now thread on the adjusting clamp until it touches the bearing.  Check for binding and play, readjust if necessary, and if all is good tighten the 2.5mm allen bolt to 10 inch pounds.

    At this point you’re all done, so go ride your bike!  After making adjustments to your hubs, it’s a good idea to check them for play in the first couple of rides just in case something settles a bit.

    Click Here To Read More.

    Why Sometimes A HEAVY Hub Is A Good Idea!

    Here at AVT we supply parts to customers all over the world for some very different applications. Sure, much of what we do tends to be focussed on high performance gear, but mixed in with this we sometimes get some more unusual requests like this one from Aussie, Nigel Smith who has been touring the world for 7 years and is still going (check out his fully laden touring rig above).

    Given the extreme demands a fully laden touring bike like this places on parts like hubs, it was no surprise to hear that Nigel has already gone through several pairs of Shimano XT & Novatec hubs in recent years. With an upcoming 20,000km leg of his world tour coming up in Africa he was looking for something more robust, that would last the distance and cope with the daily punishment on tour in remote parts of the world.

    Step forward the heavy duty, high quality Phil Wood touring hubs which weigh in at an impressive 731g for the pair. But for once weight is certainly not everything, these hubs are without doubt some of the strongest on the market with stainless steel internals that withstand much higher loads than regular hubs. They also allow a greater degree of serviceability on the road, should you need to take them apart to service.

    So we wish Nigel well on his tour with his new hubs and we'll be following his progress on his Instagram page:

    Click Here To Read More.

    CROSSISCOMING Single Speed CX Conversion - Part 2

    In part 1 of this conversion project I started out by looking at the various options for converting my non-single speed Canyon CX bike into a dedicated single-speed rig for this CX season. After measuring the chain-line it looked like my preferred option of using the White Industries ENO Disc hub would work, just needed to give this all a dry run fitted to the bike before pulling the trigger on the rear wheel build.

    1- Checking the fit of the hub, freewheel and chain.


    A quick dry run using the un-boxed rear hub, White Industries freewheel and a KMC 8 Speed chain proved the whole set up went together nicely and the chain line worked well on both of the freewheel sprockets. Next up the wheel build.

    2- Rebuilding the old rear wheel with a new White Industries ENO Eccentric hub.

    I decided against a completely new wheel build for this, for one thing this bike will only get used for 3-4 months of the year, but also with MTB standards moving to Boost I had a perfectly good set of carbon Halo Vapour 29er wheels sitting around gathering dust. Its also one of the advantages of using hand built wheels in the first place (rather than a factory built wheel with proprietary hubs / spokes), is that it gives you the flexibility to re build around new hubs / standards while keeping a perfectly good rim.

    So the rear wheel was re-built by our #AVTWorks team to swap out the old SRAM XD 142x12 hub with the new White Industries ENO one.

    3- Putting it all together for the final build.

    The rest of the project was pretty straightforward from here on in. Once the rear brake was set up using the White Industries Eccentric caliper mount (paired to a set of single speed specific TRP Hylex RS brakes) everything else went back on the bike including some wide WTB Nano 40mm tires (great for those early season dry, dusty and bumpy courses where they don't measure your tires!), Ritchey cockpit and some MASH bartape.


          If you're thinking of your own conversion for CX season or have any other product related questions contact us and we'd love to help you out!

          Click Here To Read More.

          CROSSISCOMING Single Speed CX Conversion - Part 1

          CROSSISCOMING so it's time to start thinking about our thriving local Southern Oregon CX Race scene. 

          This year for something a little bit different (AKA making life harder for myself!) I thought it would be fun to race single speed... of all the different forms of bike racing i've done over the years i've never raced single speed so here goes.. i'm thinking, i'm good at running, I can push a big gear when I need to.. what could possibly go wrong?!

          First up I need a bike and don't want to splash out on a single speed specific rig (just yet), so in true cyclo-cross fashion i'm looking to re-use what i've already got in my garage with a few new parts where needed.

          The chassis for this conversion is my trusty Canyon Inflite AL frame, an alloy disc CX / winter road frame with carbon fork that i've had since 2013. This is a solid, super reliable frame & fork that over the years has been pressed into service in numerous guises, and despite a few bumps and scratches is still going strong...

          So here we are with it's 5th new lease of life and first up solving the issue of single speed compatibility on a non single speed frame. 

          There are a few options to consider for the conversion:

          1- Easiest is to run a chain tensioner like the Paul Melvin with a single speed conversion kit for the existing rear wheel (Mavic Crossmax 29er with a Shimano Freehub). This is the cheapest in terms of new parts needed, and the most straightforward to achieve when it comes to chain line and ease of switching cassette sprockets to find the right gearing. 

            Chris King Single Speed KitAll Chris King PartsIncludes the cog of your choice

            Paul Components Melvin Chain Tensioner, Single Speed - Black

            2 - Build a new rear wheel around the White Industries Eccentric ENO disc hub. This is my preferred option as it avoids any potential issues with dropping chains etc when using a tensioner.. and lets face it, it just looks a little more PRO as a single speed set up.

            White Industries Rear Eccentric ENO Single Speed Disc Hub 32h, 135mm, Black

              But the big question here is whether the chainline on the bike with the existing ROTOR 3D crankset i'm running is close enough to the 45mm that our friends at White Industries recommend for use with this hub. Assuming the chain line checks out my plan is to re-build the rear wheel from an old pair of carbon 29er XC (non-Boost) wheels that have been gathering dust since everything moved to Boost.

              The other option would be to build a completely new set of wheels around the Knight Composites TLA 35 rims, but given a single speed wheel is no good for anything else the rest of the year I decided this was a little excessive and i'll stick to re-using my old gear! 

              There are of course other options for a single speed conversion that use some form of eccentric bottom bracket. Either a PF30 eccentric BB or a Phil Centric English threaded BB. But with the BB92 pressfit on the Canyon neither of those are an option as there is nothing available to fit it. Using a 30mm crank like the ROTOR 3D also rules out any Chris King bottom bracket so i'm sticking with Enduro BB86/92 4130 / 41mm bearings which are pressed directly into the frame.

              Step 1.

              Checking the chainline.

              I marked the center of the seat tube with a sharpie after measuring it with a pair of calipers, looks a little funky given the tapered / asymmetric seat tube, but the line is pretty much in the center. 

              Fit existing ROTOR cranks with new 38T CX round chainring. 

              Measure distance from the chainring to the mark on center line of the seat tube.

              Although its not very clear from the pictures the chainline is very close to the 45mm recommended by White, sure there's a pretty decent margin of error on the measurement (maybe 2 or 3mm) but it's close enough to give me confidence that this will work. 

              If I need it there is some adjustment on the chainring either by mounting it to the inside of the crank (like an inner ring) plus using spacers between the BB and chainring to space it out more, or alternatively by using a 0.5mm cassette spacer to move the freewheel out slightly.

              Step 2.

              Parts ordered!

              White Industries Rear Eccentric ENO Disc Hub
              White Industries Eccentric Disc Caliper Mount
              White Industries ENO DOS Freewheel

              Stay tuned for the next installment where I check everything fits together on the frame and the chainline works before having my old rear wheel re-built around the White Industries hub.

              If you're thinking of your own conversion for CX season or have any other product related questions contact us and we'd love to help you out!

              Click Here To Read More.

              Tubeless Road Tire Compatibility on ENVE Road / Gravel / XC Rims

              Technical Service Bulletin from ENVE on tubeless road tire compatibility with ENVE Road / Gravel and XC Rims:

              "To guarantee a safe and enjoyable rider experience with the SES 4.5AR,M50, M525, G23, and G27 it is important that customers select and ride tires that we have tested and identified as reliable and safe to ride. 

              In both lab and field testing, some tires have failed to remain securely mounted on the SES 4.5AR, M50, M525, G23, and G27 hookless bead designed rims. At standard operating pressures of <80psi/5.5bar, some tires are susceptible to “blow-off” which is defined by the tire bead stretching off the rim. 

              Approved/Recommended Tires

              Mavic Tubeless Tires >28mm
              Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless Easy 28mm
              Schwalbe G One Speed Tubeless Easy 30mm
              Maxxis Padrone Tubeless Ready 28mm
              Hutchinson Sector Tubeless 28 or 32mm
              Hutchinson Intensive 2 Tubeless 28mm

              Incompatible/Not Recommended Tires
              Specialized S-Works Turbo 2Bliss Ready 28mm
              Any Tube-Type/Non-Tubeless Tires

              We acknowledge that this list of tires is not comprehensive and that many new tubeless compatible tires are being introduced to the market on a regular basis. We will continue to add tires to this list as we test and qualify them."

              For any questions on this or any other rim / tire / wheel build item please contact us!

              Click Here To Read More.